We spent a weekend in Belgrade.  It was a gritty, cool, affordable, active, fun city and we met a ton of friendly and interesting people.  There is a certain, unique spirit and passion to this city that we had never seen before.  And they are SERIOUS about their futbol (these are just flares - set off in times of both great celebration and great anger. They also ripped the seats out of the stands and threw them onto the field.  Passionate fans I tell you.)